Wow. So much has happened since the last time we were anywhere close to an Internet connection! Below are short updates of wht we have done each day.

Driving in Israel. A very wise man on the flight over, when learning that we would be renting a car and driving around the country, advised: "Driving in Israel is crazy. Just pretend that you're driving a tank, and everything will be all right." He was correct. Katie doesn't have gray hair quite yet, so we think she's handling the stress OK.
We have rented a Nissan, and Katie has done an awesome job navigating the roads. Ben has ascended to the role of Chief Navigator. I navigated for all of an afternoon, Heidi does a pretty good job, but Ben got us from Korazin to Cana to Nazareth to Meggido to Ein Harod to Mount Tabor to Haifa without one U-turn. Pretty amazing.

01.29.06
Jerusalem. I love the Old City: it's old walls, bustling streets, and ancient buildings are wonderful. Old and new are juxtaposed so wonderfully: a man peddling wares, an electronic store, an Internet cafe. But mostly it's just old. To quote Luisa Maude Montgomery, there is so much "scope for the imagination" in this little section of the world!

Western Wall.
On the rampart up to the Temple Mount, we captured our favorite Ha Kotel images of the Wall. The Wall functions as an outdoor synagogue for Jews and a stopping place for tourists.

Temple Mount.
Location of the "Abomination of the Desolation," as many have termed the Mosque of Omar and the many mosques that are located on the holy ground where countless Jews previously worshipped near the Holy of Holies. Because it it hallowed ground for three monotheistic religions, it is protected by extremely tight security. Going through security at the base, the guards decided that they didn't like my laptop in my backpack. So we had to go in shifts: Ben and Heidi went first, while Katie and I stayed back and photographed the busy square area. When it was Katie's and my turn, they decided they didn't like my 70-200mm lens, so we had to go back yet again. Devoid of anything except a backpack, a couple filters, and two lenses, and covered from head to toe with modest--yet unstylish--layers, we finally made it through security and and made our way up the ramp.

We decided it was worth the extra hassle, if only because we were able to shoot a perspective of the Western Wall that you can't get anywhere else. Mount Moriah contains amazing architecture and protective guards. We did not go in to any of the mosques.

In a courtyard, away from most of the people, are many column bases, lined up in rows, dating to the time of Herod. Tears came to my eyes as I saw that the crevices in these ornate columns are now being used as ash trays. The Arabs in control of the Temple Mount now seem to have little regard for certain artifacts, locations, and irreplaceable memorabilia.

I am grateful that we "ascended the mount" to where the Temple once stood, despite what it stands for now. It gave me a new appreciation for the location. So much happened at this place. Abraham ascended the mountain, willing to sacrifice his only son.God watched His only
Son ascend the mountain, sacrificing Himself for the salvation of the world--for my salvation.

Qumran.

Ein Gedi. Saul tried to kill David nine times. While running for his life, David retreated to an oasis that defies description. There's really no way to describe it: a slice of pure water flowing from a spring in the mountain, working its way down the hill. Everything else all around it is a barren wasteland: miles and miles of desert and rock on one side, with miles and miles of the Dead Sea on the other. Its desolate location gives even more value to the spring and caves surrounding it. It is a nice walk up to "David's Spring," and we got there late enough for the evening colors to begin.

Dead Sea. Wow. It was cold. But how many times in your life do you have a chance to float in the Dead Sea? I hope many, but you never know!

01.30.06
Masada
I need a t-shirt that says, "I climbed Masada." On second thought, I need one that says, "I crawled Masada at 5:30 in the morning, with a backpack and a tripod on my back." Yeah.

We stayed at a youth hostel that is actually at the foot of Masada, about 500 meters from the trail head going to the Snake Path. Two busses of elementary-aged children arrived just after us, so we braved the noises of stomping feet and a disco party that went until early in the morning.

Previously the bastion of Herod's summer palace, Masada served as the Jewish Revolt's last stand against the Roman empire. When it was finally breached by the Romans, there was enough water left in the cisterns to last for three years. To their shock, the Romans discovered the bodies of every single zealot: rather than fighting the Romans to the death or succumbing to defeat, the Jews committed mass suicide. It has become the Alamo of the Isreali world, and a symbol to freedom fighters and religious zealots alike.

The morning light streaming over the mountain was amazing, and well worth the strenuous ascent before any cable cars were moving.


Bethlehem
From Masada, we made our way back to Jerusalem, found a parking garage, and called a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend, who just happens to be a taxi driver. Asherov arrived in the next three minutes, and we piled into his car for a trip to Bethlehem. The city of Christ's birth is now surrounded by a high security fence: no one goes in who does not pass the guard's screenings, and no one comes out who does not meet their satisfaction. Upon exiting the city later, there was an Israeli soldier posted at the intersection, making sure that no green Palestinian plates were leaving the city. The entire city is shrouded in high security.

Protestant, Armenian, and Catholic beliefs are represented in the Church of the Nativity. Our guide—who doubles as an employee at a souvenir shop—did an admirable job of explaining this crevice and that tapestry, and the significance of the structure that now covers the grotto that Helena identified as the birthplace of the Savior.

After a stop at his souvenir shop, and the obligatory purchase of a few items in exchange for his tour, we were on our way again. Next time I'm in Jerusalem, I will definitely call Asharov, our Arabic taxi friend, whenever I need to get somewhere via taxi!

01.31.06
Bet Shean
After a night at a youth hostel in Bet Shean (this one was 5 star: hot showers and breakfast!), we made our way to the ruins of Bet Shean, and the Biblical Tel Bet Shean.

Bet Alpha Synogogue

Ein Harod

Galilee

02.01.06
Ancient Boat

Mount of Beatitudes

Capernaum

Tabgha

Yehudiya Nature Reserve

Korazin

Golan Heights

Tel Ban

Banias

Mount Hermon

Nimrod's Fortress

02.02.06
Cana

Nazareth

Megiddo

Ein Harod

Mount Tabor

Haifa

Mount Carmel

02.03.06
Mount Carmel
This morning found us at the Carmel Youth Hostel, at the foot of Mount Carmel, within sight of the Mediterranean ocean. Katie and I headed out the door at 6, in search of stellar sunrise shots. It definitely would have helped if we could have located a trail up Mount Carmel, but none offered themselves, so we blazed a trail up the side instead. It was incredibly hazy and the clouds had blown in from the ocean--so Katie got some cool flower pictures and I got some cool silhouettes. We will continue to pray for a clear sunrise.

Acco
I love this busy city. Nazareth and Acco are my two favorite locations for "people pictures"—candid photography opportunities at their best. It also contains Crusader ruins, bustling markets, and meandering tunnels.

Haifa
The drive back down the coast through Haifa afforded a 20-second photo stop at the Bahai temple. It was 20 seconds because Katie pulled into the bus stop lane, and we happily snapped pictures at the beautiful architecture and sloped lawn until the next bus pulled in.

The incomparable building and well-manicured lawns serve as a facade for bogus beliefs and errant philosophies. In short, the Behai belief declares that any path to happiness and heaven is a good one. If it works for you, go for it.

Ceasarea Maritime
This afternoon has to have been the best time of shooting so far. Amazing view after amazing view afforded itself as we hustled through the crusader ruins and Roman remnants that hug the shore of the Mediterranean. It rained lightly as we went along, creating dark clouds and preparing for a moody sunset.

Roman Aquaducts
We timed our day so that we could shoot the sunset at the Roman Aquaducts in Ceasarea. There are two aquaducts running the length of the beach for miles, built a century apart.

02.04.06
We're back in Jerusalem, and on our way out for another day of adventure and shooting. Our goal is to experience a bit of the majesty of God in this awesome little city!